First, the honest part
KAYVA does not make smart products. No app, no hub, no firmware. Apps get discontinued, hubs fail, firmware updates break things — and a light should still work when the WiFi is down.
But that is our choice, not a limitation of the hardware. The 480 Pro Strip is a passive 24V constant-voltage load. It is copper, LEDs and phosphor. It will run behind any decent 24V CV controller — Tuya, Aqara, or any comparable brand — and it will not know or care which.
If you want app control, here is how to do it properly.
The wiring order
Mains → 24V CV driver → controller → strip.
The controller sits on the low-voltage side, between the driver and the strip. It does not go before the driver, and it does not replace the driver.
With this setup you want a plain, non-dimmable CV driver. The controller does the dimming downstream. If you use a dimmable driver and a controller, the two dimming stages fight each other and you get flicker.
Three things to check before you buy the controller
1. Wattage rating
The controller must be rated above your total load, with headroom. The 480 Pro draws 12W per metre:
| Strip run | Load | Controller / driver |
|---|---|---|
| 5m | 60W | 100W |
| 10m | 120W | 200W |
| 20m | 240W | 2 × 200W |
A 60W controller in front of a 10m run will get hot and fail. This is the most common mistake.
2. PWM frequency
Controllers dim by switching the strip on and off very fast. Cheap ones do this slowly — low-frequency PWM — and the result is a strobe you can see on a phone camera, and that some people feel as eye strain even when they cannot see it.
Look for a high PWM frequency, above 1kHz and ideally well beyond. It is rarely on the box. If the seller cannot tell you, assume it is low.
3. Single colour, not RGB
The 480 Pro is a fixed single-colour strip — 2700K or 4000K. You want a single-channel CV dimmer/controller, not an RGB or RGBW one. An RGB controller will work on one channel, but you are paying for three you cannot use and adding failure points for nothing.
What goes wrong
- Visible strobe on camera → low PWM frequency. Replace the controller.
- Flicker at low brightness → either low PWM, or you have a dimmable driver and a controller fighting each other.
- Controller runs hot, then dies → undersized for the load, or sealed in a ceiling with no ventilation.
- Far end of the cove is dimmer → not the controller. Voltage drop. Feed the run from both ends.
- Works for a year, then the app is discontinued → this is the risk you are taking. It is why we do not build it in.
If you would rather not
A trailing-edge (ELV) wall dimmer with a dimmable 24V CV driver gives you smooth, flicker-free dimming with nothing to update and nothing to pair. It works in a power cut. It will still work in ten years.
Do not use a leading-edge (TRIAC) dimmer on a COB strip — it commonly causes visible flicker and buzz, and it is the most common complaint after a Singapore renovation.
The strip
KAYVA 480 Pro Strip — 480 LED/m dotless COB, Ra95+ with R9 above 50, SDCM ≤5, 12W/m, 24V, 20,000 hours at L70. Tested on every batch, and we publish the numbers.
Whatever you put in front of it: LED drivers are Controlled Goods in Singapore and require a SAFETY Mark. Size yours here. Mains connection by a licensed electrician.